Tour Vienna in a Single Weekend
48 Hours of City Life in the Austrian Capital
Even though a weekend is short, use it wisely and you can experience all the flavours Vienna has to offer - literally and figuratively.
There’s a huge amount to see in Vienna. It’s a Baroque city, a Medieval city, an Art Nouveau city, and a nineteenth century imperial capital. It’s a city of wine, a city of beer, a city of cafes. A weekend break gives you a terribly short time to get to know it – but it can be done.
Baroque and Secession Vienna
On Saturday morning, head for the Karlskirche (metro: Karlsplatz. Open 9-12.30 and 1=6pm Monday to Saturday, Sunday afternoons only; EUR 6 admission fee). This architecturally sophisticated work by Fischer von Erlach references Roman Classical and Baroque architecture such as the Pantheon and Trajan’s column to show Vienna as the new Rome – home of a new empire. Inside, a lift and scaffolds take you high up into the frescoed dome, which is being restored – a unique chance to see Rottmayr’s paintings up close.
This is the Baroque of High Imperial Vienna. But you don't have to go far to see the very different Vienna of the Secession – early twentieth century art nouveau style. The matching Karlsplatz pavilions were created by Otto Wagner for the metro – one is now a cafe, the other a museum; their style seems to mix a zen-like Japanese influence with delightful floral ornament. Just over the road is the Secession building, its ziggurat-like façade crowned by an openwork gilt dome that reflects the forms of foliage.
Lunch in the Heart of the Medieval City
Next head to Graben, visiting the fine St Peter’s church en route – another example of Vienna’s fine baroque style. (Open free, all day.) You’ll see the plague column, and the intriguing Stock im Eisen, an ancient tree trunk with nails hammered into it by generations of apprentice smiths. Keep heading east and you’ll end up in the medieval streets past St Stephen’s – find the Griechenbeisl on Fleischmarkt for a traditional Austrian lunch in one of the most shambolic Medieval buildings you’ll ever see, including one of the towers of the old city wall. (Don't miss the atmospheric Greek orthodox church next door.)
The whole of Saturday afternoon can easily be taken up with a visit to the Stephansdom cathedral (open . Its mixed-up façade gives you no idea of the riches within. The ornate Gothic pulpit, with its figures of the four Doctors of the Church, is famed for the self-portrait of the artist Anton Pilgram peering out from under the stairs. Go to the organ loft in the left aisle, and you’ll see his face again just underneath the balcony.
Viennese Cafe Society
Getting peckish? Time for cafe society – heading back from the Middle Ages into the nineteenth century. You’ll want to try the ‘original’ Sachertorte. You have two choices. For the authentic version, head up Kaerntnerstrasse to the cafe in the Hotel Sacher (open 0800 to 2400 daily). For another – and some think better – style, try Demel (open 1000-1900 daily) on the Michaelerplatz. (The difference? It’s where they put the apricot jam – in the middle or at the top.)
Saturday evening, and time for a night at the opera. If you’re clever, you booked your tickets a month ago – if not, get there early and wait in line for a standing ticket – cheap if not comfortable.
Imperial Vienna and a Musical Treat
Sunday morning brings a different musical experience with a visit to the Hofkapelle to hear the Vienna Boys’ Choir. Again, get tickets in advance, or queue up from half past eight for standing room. Afterwards, a walk through the Hofburg will show you the splendours of the imperial palace.
Head Out of Vienna for a Country Style Lunch
For Sunday lunch, be adventurous and head out north of the Danube to one of the heuriger in Bisamberg, Strebersdorf, or Stammersdorf – less touristy than Grinzing. A bunch of pine twigs is displayed if the heuriger is open, and here you can drink the local wine and in some cases cider or perry with your meal.
Finally, on Sunday afternoon it’s time to go up the famed ferris wheel in the Prater to get a bird's eye view of Vienna and end your short visit. This is a rather touristy, exuberant, even slightly tasteless side of the city – an antidote to all the culture and imperial grandiosity you’ve seen. Time to relax, and maybe visit a beer garden if you have time for a quick evening snack before heading home from your Viennese city break.
